A cultural experience at the Maori Tamaki

A cultural experience at the Maori Tamaki
SARAWAK TRIBUNE - Friday, 18 October 2002

The 9-day Sarawak tourism and trade mission to New Zealand, led by Tourism Minister Dato Sri Abang Johari Tun Openg, went without a hitch. Among the places the mission visited was the Tamaki a Maori village in Rotorua where they had a whale of a time enjoying and getting an insight into Maori hospitality and culture. Michael Rogers has the story.

FOR THE RECORD ... Officials and some members of the trade and tourism delegation at the Whakarewarewa Thermal Village in Rotorua NZ. Dato Sri Abg Johari is standing fourth from right. Others standing from right are Aloysius Dris, CEO of STB and Abg Kashim the Permanent Secretary of the Ministry of Tourism. At 2nd left is Senadin State assemblyman Lee Kim Shin.

THE silence was deafening and the only sound came from the rubbing of hands in a vain attempt to keep them warm ... for the temperature, we were told earlier, was 4° Celsius.

Then from a distance, among the tall trees, came the low and mournful sound of the conch shell. My immediate neighbour whispered, too scared not to break the silence and risked spiritual retribution: "Am I in the correct place?" Except for the courtyard illuminated by four burning torches - one at each corner- it was pitch dark.

HAIL TO THE CHIEF ... Lee (right) together with Abg Johari and his wife at Pohutu Geyser

Didn't know if there was ever a moon at night in New Zealand. I did not see it. Inside, about 200 people from four different tribes congregated with four 'chiefs' standing in the front row.

The scene was the Maori village of 'Te Tawa Ngahere Pa' in Tamaki, Rotorua, New Zealand for the Hangi (food) and Concert. It is a village of the ancient proud Maori warriors - a world that unfolds before one's eyes as one journeys back in time to experience the pre-European lifestyle and customs of the Maori ancestors.

PLAYING SOLITAIRE... STB's Mary Wan Mering looking pretty near the world-famous Pohutu Geyser - one of attractions at Whakarewarewa

A village that comes to live with tribal songs, dances and activities daily from 6.30 pm. It is a village where one can witness the experience of myths and legends shared from the hearts of the old through the lives of the young. The Hangi, on the other hand, is a time of sharing and feasting to a selection of foods cooked the traditional Maori way on hot stone as in an authentic earthen oven.

On our 20-km coach journey to the village from the warm comfort of our hotel in Rotorua city centre, our driver-cum-tour guide, who gave her long and unpronounceable name in eight to 10 syllables only her parents can utter with ease, briefed us on protocol. Orewa - as we came to know her by - started by teaching us common Maori words like Kia Ora (greeting, welcome, good morning, hello, good bye), Kapai (very good), Kai (food) and paki paki (applause) to mention a few.

As a "tribal group"' visiting the abode of a neighbouring tribe, we were told to select a chief from our midst before we could even think of entering the Tamaki (village). All attention turned to Tourism Minister Dato Sri Abang Johari, leader of the State trade and tourism delegation to New Zealand from Sept 29 to October 6. Rotorua was next on the itinerary after Auckland where a meeting was held with Mayor John Banks coupled with a visit to Gulf Harbour, America Cup Village in Westhaven Marina and lunch with Air NZ director-vice president in the city. Abang Johari politely declined and suggested that Senadin State Assemblyman Lee Kim Shin be given the honour. After a little persuasion, Lee accepted and the whole bus erupted into a chorus of Hail to the Chief.

Chief Lee (Chief YB to Owera) was duly briefed on the finer points of Maori protocol; the Hongi (greeting with the nose), the importance of keeping silent during the various rituals, especially at the court yard where the visiting tribes would be challenged (whether they come in peace or war).

While photographs may be taken, our chief was told we could only do so in a standing position.' Any other position means an invitation to a challenge. "We do not want that, do we?" our guide advised. "That's 'cos our warriors are mighty big and strong. Just think of Jonas Lomu, the All Black star and you know what I mean."

TE KARANGA - THE CALLING ... Welcome to the ancient world of proud Maori warriors

The blowing of the conch shell was rising to a crescendo while the assembled multitude still kept their silence. Attention was now focused on the doorway. The waiting was getting unbearable. It was also getting to be too cold for our comfort out in the open.

Suddenly the warriors charged out of the doorway, brandishing spears, and with tongue waggling and eyeballs rolling. They stopped in front of the four chiefs, standing at full attention at the centre of the courtyard. The chiefs were scrutinised from head to toe being asked "what brings you here to disturb our peace?"

A war dance (haka) ensued and at the end of it, four leaves, or at least what looked like them, were thrown to the ground in front of the chiefs. The leaves were duly picked up, signifying the chiefs came in peace.

The warriors stopped their war dance and one by one, the chiefs were welcomed to the village with the Hongi (the gentle pressing of noses between two people symbolising the sharing of two life forces.

It is an expression of friendship and unity. What followed next was a sigh of relief all round. The multitude started to breathe easy. And in single file, they entered the doorway heading for the bonfires lining the footpath to the inner sanctum of the village.

The four tribes were then allowed to meet the whanau (family), see for themselves the Maori village lifestyle, hear the haunting chants of the Maori and then "herded" to the wharenui (meeting house) for a half hour-long cultural presentation. Here, tradition stipulates the front row be reserved for the men and the visiting chiefs. Our guide earlier told us that should anything happen on stage, the men would quickly stand up to defend their women and the others sitting in the back row.

Next on the agenda was the Hangi (feast). The tribes trooped into the dining hall to dine on traditional and New Zealand foods. There were mountains of delicacies laid on the banquet table and all the visiting tribes did was to troop in single file and eat to their heart's content. The atmosphere in the dining hall was very relaxed. Gone was the strict observance of the rituals like in the court yard. People were able to talk freely and even asked their hosts questions. In fact, some of the men who played warriors and also the women at the welcoming ceremony were now dressed in modern attire. No more of th painted faces and rolling eyes.

We left at 11pm after many goodbye and come-again-soons and bagfuls of souvenirs and not to mention rolls of used films.

Earlier in the day, after a three-hour coach journey from Auckland, even before checking into our hotel, we had the opportunity to be led on a guided tour of the Thermal Reserve & Maori Cultural Centre at the New Zealand Maori Arts & Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa.

The cultural centre sits on a former Maori village which overlooks the field of geyser including the world famous Pohutu Geyser. The pre-European village presents an insight into just how the Maori of the old actually lived. We were astounded at the beauty and depth of the carving in the Wharenui (meeting house) and the Patak (storehouse). The name Whakarewarewa means a natural hot water source that has been used for cooking purposes for generation after generation.

Mai Ora essence of Maori
A cultural experience

From the time one entered the village n partaking in the Hangi (feast), Maori ritual were observed to the hilt. Was that necessary one may ask, or were the rituals designed authenticate the cultural practices of the Maoris? (When on arrival, you are instructed (on Maori protocol, you will quickly realise that you are about to experience a generous display of authentic Maori cultures.

You are entering sacred ground and must be officially greeted with a Powhiri (ceremony of welcome). You have started a journey of discovery ... into another world; stories waiting to be shared as you encounter the essence of the Maoris - both old and new. You will be guided along by protocol and rituals that will intrigue and mystify you as you stroll through the ages of time to encounter the uniqueness of our world. The rituals were non-religious in nature.

Lesson to Learn
The Tamaki is very much like our ow Sarawak Cultural Village. It is part of the New Zealand Maori Arts & Crafts Institute set up in 1963 by an act of Parliament an remains today in the ownership of the New Zealand government.

The institute was created against a backdrop of fear that the Maori culture and their unique arts and crafts were threatened wit imminent oblivion and extinction.

The New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute Act therefore requires the institute t maintain, perpetuate, promote, and exhibi key elements of the Maori culture and art and crafts in addition to an obligation to trait Maori in their customary arts and crafts.

Our own Sarawak Cultural Village could adopt a thing or two from the Tamaki. Stric observance of many of the local tribal ritual is virtually absent at the SCV. Abang Johari has this to say: "Strict observance of ritual creates authenticity. Before one enters the vil lage, for example, one is obliged to observ the ritual or risked retribution. Whether it is true or not is another thing."

"If we could do the same for the Miring our visitors would respect us more. Like th Maoris' haka, the Miring shouldn't be seen a a religious rite but one that adds authenticity to our welcoming rituals." On the way to the Tamaki, our Kiwi guide advised us not to laugh at, imitate and make fun of any of the rituals performed before us, especially during the welcoming ceremony in the court yard. Silence must be strictly maintained during the ritual, she cautioned. Abang Johari added "The strict observance of the ritual draw people to the Tamaki. And it has the statistic and recognition awards to prove its popularity." The Tamaki has won the International Tourism Awards, the New Zealand Supreme Award and the New Zealand Tourism Awards several times.

Kia Ora!